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Understood. Job becomes one where you might not want to use a fork paddock stand, although someone has done it by removing the wheel, re-inserting the QR axle, and tying it with a ratchet strap to an overhead beam to support the raised fork/wheel carrier -- think that'd freak out the missus were she or one of the kids to enter the garage! :)

Rather I was thinking a relatively cheap box jack for the front wheel, something like this:

Amazon.com: TUFFIOM Motorcycle Scissor Lift Jack w/Rubber Top Surface & Safety Pin, Height Adjustable Steel Center Hoist Crank Stand for Motorcycle Repair Maintenance, 1100LBS Weight Capacity : Automotive
An old post I know, but I've also had the front held up using an engine stand and a ratchet strap from the hook around the head stem, perfectly safe and allows a decent lift height. TO get the fork up and away as you try to get the shock back in, I added a second ratchet to the front wheel, worked a treat.See below.

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Apologies in advance for a little topic drift.

I recently purchased the BMW Engine adaptor 83300401347 (manufactured by Bosch) and was hoping to find a method to attach it to the Big Blue but that’s not going to be as straightforward as I first thought.

At least not without removing the C-Channel from underneath by drilling out four through-spot welds which might still be an option but the least attractive one.

However the literature made reference to a BMW Scissor Lift Table part number 83300401345 that the C-Channel slides over the top platform of the lift and secured by a thumb screw.

Photo of the underside of the engine adaptor plate if it helps;

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Seems this scissor lift table (also made by Bosch it would appear) is out of stock everywhere but priced anywhere from €379.45-€1213.03

Now I might have sprung for the lowest price but there’s no way I could quantify paying any more than that for a simple scissor lift looking at the alternatives that are available out there.

Thing is I would need one with a suitably-sized top platform to slide the C-Channel over and was wondering if anybody who might have trodden this path before could recommend a particular make/model scissor lift that the engine adaptor plate would fit?

Appreciate any recommendations…

Thanks & kind regards,
-=Glyn=-
 
Apologies in advance for a little topic drift.

I recently purchased the BMW Engine adaptor 83300401347 (manufactured by Bosch) and was hoping to find a method to attach it to the Big Blue but that’s not going to be as straightforward as I first thought.

At least not without removing the C-Channel from underneath by drilling out four through-spot welds which might still be an option but the least attractive one.

However the literature made reference to a BMW Scissor Lift Table part number 83300401345 that the C-Channel slides over the top platform of the lift and secured by a thumb screw.

Photo of the underside of the engine adaptor plate if it helps;

View attachment 36373

Seems this scissor lift table (also made by Bosch it would appear) is out of stock everywhere but priced anywhere from €379.45-€1213.03

Now I might have sprung for the lowest price but there’s no way I could quantify paying any more than that for a simple scissor lift looking at the alternatives that are available out there.

Thing is I would need one with a suitably-sized top platform to slide the C-Channel over and was wondering if anybody who might have trodden this path before could recommend a particular make/model scissor lift that the engine adaptor plate would fit?

Appreciate any recommendations…

Thanks & kind regards,
-=Glyn=-
some guy onhere had a lift plate on a scissors jack. I cabt recall who. That device appaers to be identical in function to one he made
I assume the thing bolts to the holes on the engine underside in three places?
A image this unit bolts on first then has the scissors left slide into the channel which is locked in place with the thumbscrew.
 
Yup QC that’s exactly how it mounts. It bolts to the two threaded webs that form part of the crankcase at the front of the engine and the rear one is located another threaded hole behind the oil filter using those 3 Allen bolts supplied;
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View from the other side which uses only the one fixing;
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And view from the front;
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Then the the top platform of the scissor jack is slid into the C-channel from whatever side you prefer.

I called into Machine Mart who had a couple of different scissor lifts/jacks in stock and the top platform of the blue Draper lift was far too wide to locate in the C-channel although the height of the platform would have been a perfect fit whereas the Red Clarke lift top platform was exactly the right width to have slotted into the C-channel but the height of its top platform prevented it from doing so.

Not so straightforward as I was hoping it might be so maybe there’s not such a thing as a standard size C-channel after all Eric? Motea had a great selection all with 40% off but the problem when ordering online ‘sight unseen’ is rarely are the top platform dimensions given so I’d be shopping blind.

The C-channel size is roughly 150mm/6” wide x 38mm/1½” high so I need to find a suitable scissor jack with a top platform of that size. The search continues…

-=Glyn=-
 
Update from today. Removed the front fork assembly, complete with upper and lower leading links. Was pretty straight forward, only obstacle was the ABS module was in the way of the upper leading link lh bolt. Have to remove the mounting bracket, loosen off the hard brake line mounts and unplug the multipin connector to get a ratchet and suitable hex drive in there.

Heated the leading link to ball joint mount bolts to about 100deg (I don't have a temp gun) but I did notice that when it starts to heat, you get a clear liquid coming out from the threads, I can only assume this is the loctite.

Got the leading links away from the ball joints, next job is to get the ball joints out of thr fork assembly.

The ball joint seats in the leading links look very good, once I've got the new bj in place, I might strip the old ones to see inside. These ones are the originals and have done 102,000km.

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Removed the top ball joint last night. My improvised jig worked OK, heat is your friend, my little butane torch worked well, plus my Fluke thermocouple kept a close eye on temperature. At around 90-95 deg C on the opposite side of the bj where I had the flame, I decided to give the breaker bar and 55mm adapter a go, (plus the torch was running down). A little bit of leverage and the loctite released. Only the top 1/3rd of the threads were loctited, and the dark green liquid that was there was evidence that the temperature did it's job to release it.

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Tomorrow's job is to turn the assembly over to access the lower bj, refill the butane torch and have a crack.
 
Good work Eric. I took mine to the shop mainly because I didn’t have a 260Nm torque wrench to replace them. Shop price about the same as a torque wrench.
Corrct, Ball joints go to 260Nm from memory, according to Beech, around 85% of this is sufficient, as the allen key socket in the end of the threaded is pretty small, this will strip at those higher values, as I found out undoing the leading links, the top one stripped out just holding it with my 7mm allen socket.

Anyways, I do have a wrench that goes to 350Nm, so not worried about that. Biggest PITA is the top lh leading link bolt. The ABS hard lines are seriously in the way, I will be struggling to get a torque on that allen key socket bolt for sure.

Will use the same block and strap set up to install them. The top nuts to the leading links go to 130Nm

Edit: updated torque values.
 
Tonight's effort included getting the lower ball joint out, same procedure, required a bit more heat, ended up melting most of the ball joint rubber. Finally let go and then a bit of a process to get the complete threaded section out, not much swing room for the 50mm adapter and breaker bar, thread is still tight despite the heat breaking the bond.

Cleaned up the threads and the rest of the fork, it's quite a nice casting actually. Cleaned up the leading links and checked all the bearings that are pressed into the bosses, all of them are good, no rough spots or excessive play.

Tomorrow I will clean up the pivot link and front shock still mounted to the bike, these are really easy to access and I can also check the pivot link bearings as well.

The plan is to have it all back together by the weekend, then time for all the other jobs before putting all the plastics back on.

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Update from today. Removed the front fork assembly, complete with upper and lower leading links. Was pretty straight forward, only obstacle was the ABS module was in the way of the upper leading link lh bolt. Have to remove the mounting bracket, loosen off the hard brake line mounts and unplug the multipin connector to get a ratchet and suitable hex drive in there.

Heated the leading link to ball joint mount bolts to about 100deg (I don't have a temp gun) but I did notice that when it starts to heat, you get a clear liquid coming out from the threads, I can only assume this is the loctite.

Got the leading links away from the ball joints, next job is to get the ball joints out of thr fork assembly.

The ball joint seats in the leading links look very good, once I've got the new bj in place, I might strip the old ones to see inside. These ones are the originals and have done 102,000km.

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Excellent photos and info. I have a 2003 K1200GT with 21,000 miles. Nearly every time I drive over a bump, I hear a hard rattle. Suspension feels good and tight, bu just might be a ball joint.
—Neal
 
Nearly every time I drive over a bump, I hear a hard rattle. Suspension feels good and tight, bu just might be a ball joint.
Could it be where the shock mounts? My '07 K1200S with ~23000 miles will sometimes make a knock when hitting bumps. I can hear it at low speeds, but I think I can feel it at higher speeds. My front end doesn't hunt while cornering. Any other ideas?
 
Update from today: Unfortunately, not enough shed time during the week, including today. However, I managed to get the new ball joints back in and also get the leading links re-mounted to the fork assembly. I ended up using the front axle, locked into place with its lower clamp bolts, them mounted in my vice using soft jaws. Worked really well,and got them to 260Nm easily. Then I clamped the top leading link in the vice, supported the fork so as not to over extend the ball joint rubber, then tightened up the nut. These aftermarket ones have a 6mm allen key recess AND a T25 deeper recess, so must take a custom tool. Anyway, the nuts for these leading links take a 21mm socket or spanner, of which I don't have the spanner. I have a 22mm crow foot plus a 22mm ring spanner, but these are too large. I tightened the nut up using the socket until the ball joint shaft started spinning, then I used a 13/16 ring spanner, which fitted quite nicely, and a 6mm allen key to tighten as far as I could go, as I didnt have the means to get my torque wrench on it. My calibrated elbow torque-o-meter felt i got about 100-120Nm on the nut. I may check tomorrow if i can get the assembly in the vice again. So apart from that, the fork is ready to go back in, I still need to clean and re-lube the linkages and shock lower end still in the bike.

I then focused on my front wheel, removed and cleaned the brake rotors, making sure the floating bobbins were all free and removed all brake build up using a scotch-brite. They came up well. Took the wheel to my mates place who has a tyre removal machine, we popped the bead and accessed the TPS which had a flat battery. 10min of work and the tyre was remounted and inflated. Will try to remount everything tomorrow.

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OK, so it seems "shed time" is as rare as hens teeth or unicorn blood. Finally got the front end back in, no real dramas, except need to pay attention to the torque and tightening sequence. Starting with the quick release axle, then the top bearing studs, then the steering linkage. Finally the shock bottom bolt and all good.

Then I bled the front brakes, replaced brake pads and fitted the front wheel with new tps fitted. Old brake fluid was a bit cloudy, and there was a waxy residue in the bottom of the resevoir.

Grabbed the front wheel and tried to pull it forwards. No movement at all, before the bj change, there was about 2mm of lateral movement, so this seems to have resolved that.

Tomorrow is rear brake fluid and pad change, then time to open the clutch cover and have a look at the clutch basket.

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New brake fluid, to the correct level
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New tps, cleaned front wheel and new pads
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all back together
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Waxy white residue in the bottom of the resevoir
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New metalgear sintetered s2 pads fitted
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All back together
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Linkages all torqued up.
 
Great job, well executed and very well documented Eric!

Hopefully I won't ever end up having to do mine but if I do I'll use this thread as a workshop manual.

What's next? Plastics on & test ride or test ride and then plastics on?

-=-=Glyn=-=-
 
Cheers mate, kind words. I actually found it very easy. I've done other (car) suspension work, clutch and gearbox work that was harder.

Still have to replace rear brake pads and fluid, recode the new front tps to the bike then plastics on and go for a ride.
 
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